Hello,

I've a question regarding this technique as I'm thinking to apply it to the 3rd print of my Taketori series (The stone bowl of Buddha) which have an all-black bowl, so I need it to mark the details in the bowl surface.

If I'm right, I have to do this:

- Carve the "positive" version of the print. That means, that the white/unprinted print back will lie on the block, showing the printed face which will be polished.

- Polish with a ceramic/porcelain or metallic material. I've a bone paper folder which I use for super complex origami. Can it be used for polishing?

What I'm not sure is if I need a different pigment, the use of any kind of glue, wax, or whatever to be applied on the paper surface to achieve the effect.

Thank in advance. Sincerely,
Franz

Yes, but with an important 'twist'. The carved area for the shomen-zuri has to be smaller than the normal block. We do the front rubbing after the print has dried, and the paper has thus shrunk to a smaller dimension than when wet.

So to prepare this block, make a print first in the normal way, then take a dry copy, and paste it down face up on a fresh block. Carve as required.


This is not necessary; just your normal baren will do. Don't use too much camellia oil of course, as that will stain the print, and use a fairly strong baren.


If the pigment has had some extra nikawa glue mixed in, then this will help the shomen-zuri to be shiny, but it's not actually necessary.

Try some experiments!

Thank you very much for the information and the warning.

I won't add any nikawa because I'm looking for a matte polishing (if the bowl shines then, on the tale, it'd be the real object instead of a false one).

Then, I do need to have the pattern onto the bowl. How would you think would be best?
a) Paste the dry print. Carve the bowl outter shape. Paste the pattern on it (just the way you did on "Fox Moon" cloths patterns) and carve again or
b) Paste the dry print and paste over the pattern and carve it altogether

EDIT: I'll experiment, of course but your tips/suggestions/tricks are priceless.

Doing it in two steps would be best I think. First, get the basic shape of the object cut into the wood. Once that is ready, then put the pattern on, and cut it out ...

It's also probably best to avoid a lot of very fine lines in the pattern - shomen-zuri works best with good solid areas of 'colour'

Then, I think I'll change the design. The idea I had in mind was use it for the geometric pattern but it has very fine lines.

I'll use this technique, then, for the smoked part of the bowl which are bigger than the pattern.