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Strong wood glue? 
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Joined: Sat Sep 26, 2009 2:33 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Lancashire, United Kingdom
Post Strong wood glue?
I'm just re-reading your ebook and wanted to ask about the use of paste or strong wood glue you mention on the pages regarding getting the design onto the block.
I've had the situation a couple of times with small details to carve, that the paper I've pasted on to the block lifts away or gets pretty messed up. (using the tube paste).
What kind of strong wood glue do you suggest; do you mean PVA type wood glue, or another type?
As you mention, with average sized lines and spaces, the rice paste works fine.
I should also add, which may be the major part of my problem is, that I create my hanshitas by flipping my image in Photoshop and printing it out onto ordinary copy paper, pasting the now reversed image face up onto my block to give me a good clear line to work to.
New Year and new methods though now, and I'm going to start using the laminated gampi on my next print.
Cheers, Mark.


Tue Jan 19, 2010 2:31 pm
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Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2009 2:30 pm
Posts: 194
Location: Tokyo, Japan
Post Re: Strong wood glue?
Mark Mason wrote:
What kind of strong wood glue do you suggest; do you mean PVA type wood glue, or another type?

I use typical 'white' wood glue - I guess it's PVC? Not exactly sure. I moisten the wood surface a touch first, run some beads of glue over it, then smooth it out with my fingers. After laying down the paper, I rub the back with a strong baren to get good contact. Using too much glue causes trouble; just a fine thin layer is enough. I've never had any trouble with delicate areas lifting up since I switched to using real glue (instead of paste) for tracings that require it (those with fine lines, etc.)

Quote:
I create my hanshitas by flipping my image in Photoshop and printing it out onto ordinary copy paper, pasting the now reversed image face up onto my block to give me a good clear line to work to.

That'll work basically OK, as long as you aren't trying to cut real delicate stuff. But even normal copy paper has 'thickness' that will get in the way on 'fine' work; there is no way I could have done it that way (for example) with the new year print I sent out this year (image here).


Tue Jan 19, 2010 2:44 pm
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Joined: Sat Sep 26, 2009 2:33 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Lancashire, United Kingdom
Post Re: Strong wood glue?
Thanks Dave, that's so helpful.
I was worried that the white wood glue I was thinking of wouldn't clean/wash off after I'd finished carving, but I guess it does.
I did think that the thickness of the paper would contribute to the problem, but I've found that printing all my hanshita out this way, all in one go (key line and colours) means that any minor distortion that the inkjet printer may throw in is replicated across every copy, so I know my registration across all the blocks will be correct. Perhaps I'll just print out the key block (if it's highly detailed) using the laminated gampi, and carry on with the copy paper for average detailed colour blocks.
Mark.


Tue Jan 19, 2010 3:02 pm
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Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2009 2:30 pm
Posts: 194
Location: Tokyo, Japan
Post Re: Strong wood glue?
Mark Mason wrote:
... I've found that printing all my hanshita out this way, all in one go (key line and colours)

Hmmm ... Not sure if I should quibble about this or not - if I push too far on some of these points, it kind of makes me start to look just too pretentious.

But OK, I'll bite. Doing it that way - printing the key block hanshita, and the colour transfers, has some very large downsides:
- it makes you a total slave to the lines that are on the hanshita. You can't move anything by as much as a fraction of a millimetre, because the colours would of course no longer line up.
- even if you don't plan on moving anything (for making a reproduction, etc.), it's still almost certain that your carved lines will have a different 'feel' than the lines as they were originally drawn. So even if your colour blocks match perfectly to the lines of the original, they won't 'feel' right when it comes to a match with what you carved. For work with big fat key lines, this is no big deal, because the 'joints' are hidden inside the lines, but for delicate work, a lot of the subtlety will be lost.
- and although you say ' distortion that the inkjet printer may throw in is replicated across every copy', I think that is a pretty large assumption to make. My experience with distortions from a laser printer, indicated that the paper rippled and twisted as it passed through the nest of rollers, and I'm quite willing to accept that this isn't 'perfectly' replicated each time.

I did try doing it the way you describe - printing all of them together - at some point in the past, but soon learned that it just wasn't worth it. Cut your key first, then transfer it for making colour blocks.


Tue Jan 19, 2010 3:30 pm
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Joined: Sat Sep 26, 2009 2:33 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Lancashire, United Kingdom
Post Re: Strong wood glue?
I see what you mean, Dave.
I hadn't really thought about it that way, but you're right, and I have found on occasions that I've been forced (by myself) to go down a route I've predescribed because of it.
Like you say, it's a fine point; but a point well made.


Tue Jan 19, 2010 5:12 pm
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